Help me match these parts please....

Quote:

---

Originally posted by ClassicComics:

Just to make sure I understand correctly, right side up on my speakers is woofer at the top of the box....And then mount horn on top.....

I should measure 2/3 of the way up the screen and try and get the height of the center of the horn equal to that spot....

someone had talked about flying the speakers....

I think I am getting this.....

....do you mean angle them in towards center....

Does that mean the driver needs to be 19.3" from the front of the cabinet?

When you say the A7's wooden strip in the front....

....are you familiar with North West speaker repair in Smyrna off of Windy Hill rd?

---

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Correct.

Right.

Now that we know the details, 'flying' isn't a good alternative, all things considered.

Apparently.

Yes, all speakers should have the same focal point.

Well, all it truly means is that it's 19.3" from the front of the cab back to the woofer's VC, not necessarily where the HF horn's VC should be, but many folks are pleased with the results, so it must be 'close enough', i.e. in the vertical plane you want the center-line of the HF driver's ~silver 'band' to be 19.3" back from the front of the cab and the correct hookup is the one that yields the most HF output.

I'm referring to the strip you mount the horn flange to if using a stock (or at least stock looking) set-up: http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...ign/page14.jpg

Didn't realize you were local. No, all my referrals are to Gordon Waters that works out of Audio Atlanta on the Square in Marietta, though I imagine he knows them and maybe subs some of his work out to them for all I know.

GM

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ September 23, 2008 01:36 PM: Message edited by: GM ]</font>

hmm... I looked at the diagram you attached, it looks like I would have to cut out a notch at the top front of the speaker and replace it with a board, I think the same affect could be had by just screwing a piece of wood to the top of the box and attaching the horn to that, no? It looks like it sticks up about 1" over the top, right?

Funny, I talked to Gordon on the phone today as I was trying to track down some Quiet Kote spray on sound dampener for my horns....

Thanks!!

Quote:

---

Originally posted by ClassicComics:
....it looks like I would have to cut out a notch at the top front of the speaker and replace it with a board....

---

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Huh?! The original OEM mtg. bkt. was a two piece plywood 'L' angle assembly that screws to the top of the cab to brace the woofer horn mouth and provide a mounting flange for the HF horn: http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...vott/page6.jpg

GM

<font color="#FFFFFF"><font size="1">[ September 23, 2008 03:10 PM: Message edited by: GM ]</font></font>

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ September 23, 2008 03:12 PM: Message edited by: GM ]</font>

ah... makes more sense to me in that pic. In the diagram it looked like they notched out the top front of the speaker and then screwed a board flat to that so it would stick up past the top of the box... maybe it was just the way I was looking at it...

So are they using two 1/2" or two 3/4" pieces of plywood to make the L bracket? I assume one strip lays flat on top of the box and the other goes straight up and down and is screwed to the front/side of the other making the L.

Edit - forget it, I looked at the drawing again and I see it now... with all of the measurement lines on it, the 1st time I looked I though it was showing the top front of the box and the L extension onto that.... I see now it's just the L they are showing in blown up, and it's 5/8" plywood on the front piece... it still looks like it's showing 1 inch for the thickness of the other board though.... I'm tired though so everything is a little blury...

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ September 23, 2008 03:58 PM: Message edited by: ClassicComics ]</font>

CC,

I would like to show you a pic but I don't know how to do that here. Just think of a 1.5"square board, the same length as the horn width with a slot about 3/4" deep cut down the middle to fit the lower flange of the 511 horn into. Then a double slotted board to fit over the top flange of the 511 with the 811 fitting into it.

The original (or at least early '60s era) is a 1" x 1-1/2" Fir mounting strip with a 2-3/8" wide x 5/8" thick plywood riser attached to it. These sizes aren't 'set in stone' for any technical reason beyond if you want them to be original clones. I mean my 511s are screwed to a 1 x 1 (3/4" square) Fir strip which is in turn screwed to the top of the cab. My cabs are much better braced/damped than the 825/828 though, so don't need the 'L' shaped mtg. bkt. to brace it.

If you prefer, you can use alum. angle or even angle iron. Cal's is a good way also that was too obvious for me to ever think of, just make the slot wide enough to allow the horn to be angled as much as required.

GM

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ September 25, 2008 08:17 PM: Message edited by: GM ]</font>

for now I just took a 1" x 2" board, painted it black and put the boards on their sides, using the "2"" side and put them under the horns in front of the mounting lips. Works fine for now. Also, I noticed that in my other cabinets I actually have the wooden L brackets as they were mounted inside the cabinets to hang the horns from, so eventually I'll just copy these!

THANKS!

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ September 29, 2008 01:44 PM: Message edited by: ClassicComics ]</font>

Your dilema would drive me nuts!
I'd for sure want matched components for all 3 cabinets.
I'd also want woofers that are 416 like. Anything from an 803B to a 416-8c.
I'm not sure what a 423-8X even looks like. Sems that 2 of what you have heve 416 type cones in them.
I believe all of your HF drives can be made the same with new alun frams from GPA.
I's say someone has been in those crossovers replacing/repairing caps.

Good luk!

Ron

Quote:

---

Originally posted by ClassicComics:
....I noticed that in my other cabinets I actually have the wooden L brackets as they were mounted inside the cabinets....

---

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Sheesh! This is way too obvious for me to have remembered! http://www.hostboard.com/forums/ Oldtimer's disease really ***** !

GM